Russia

Back from San Pietroburgo – Il gioiello della Russia

Succede che il mio capo mi manda quattro giorni in trasferta a San Pietroburgo.
Succede che mi innamoro follemente di questa città.
Sapevo fosse affascinante, d’altronde si tratta della città preferita della mia collega Carla, e lei di Russia se ne intende.
È stato amore a prima vista, ricambiato oserei quasi dire, dato che in quattro giorni non si è mai vista una nuvola in cielo e la temperatura non è mai scesa sotto i 27 gradi.

Sicuramente la più europea tra tutte le città russe, San Pietroburgo è elegante e sofisticata. Nata nel 1709 per volere di Pietro il Grande, sorge su 101 isole circondate dal Mar Baltico e dal fiume Neva, parte integrante della città, famosa per i suoi canali su cui si affacciano sontuosi palazzi e vecchie residenze di zar e zarine, che le hanno valso l’appellativo di Venezia del Nord.

Si sviluppa attorno alla mitica Prospettiva Nevskij, lungo ed ampio viale rettilineo che attraversa la città per ben 4 km, dal monastero Aleksandr Nevskij fino alla luccicante guglia dell’Ammiragliato.
Negozi, cinema, ristoranti, caffè, ma anche musei, palazzi storici e teatri, e uffici, tanti uffici che rendono questa strada il centro vitale della città.
Passeggiando lungo la Prospettiva, non perdetevi le colonne della Cattedrale Kazan, i locali art nouveau della ex fabbrica di macchine da cucine Singer, ora trasformata in libreria, i portici del grande magazzino Gostinij Dvor e l’enorme piazza dominata dalla statua di Caterina la Grande.
Non sono un’amante dei musei lo confesso, ma la mattinata spesa a visitare l’Hermitage è stata uno dei momenti più belli del mio viaggio. Nato per mano di Caterina II per manifestare la grandezza dell’impero, ospita una collezione di 3 milioni di capolavori d’arte, di cui 60 mila esposti.
Un labirinto di gallerie e quasi mille elegantissime sale collegano i quattro edifici, risalenti a epoche diverse, che costituiscono il cuore del museo, tra i quali spicca il meraviglioso Palazzo d’Inverno, prima residenza dello Zar, un tripudio di verde e ocra in perfetto stile barocco e completato nel 1762 dall’architetto italiano Bartolomeo Rastrelli.

E che dire del magnifico Palazzo dello Stato Maggiore, proprio di fronte al Palazzo d’Inverno e alla Colonna di Alessandro, recentemente ristrutturato e che ospita svariate collezioni del museo Hermitage tra cui quella degli Impressionisti, che, ci crederete o no, ha fatto quasi commuovere una come me che di arte proprio non è mai riuscita a capire nulla.
Non sono stati quattro giorni di solo piacere, per chi se lo stesse chiedendo ho anche lavorato.. Ma lavorare in questa maniera, che spettacolo!
Visitare hotel di lusso, testare ristoranti, partecipare alle escursioni “in incognito” insieme agli ospiti, condividerne l’entusiasmo tentando di recepire ogni commento utile, al fine di migliorare un prodotto già quasi perfetto.
La visita al Palazzo di Caterina, ribattezzato Palazzo Pushkin in epoca sovietica, ex residenza estiva degli imperatori russi, l’unico palazzo che mutava di volta in volta secondo le mode e i gusti delle varie epoche, con la sua famosissima Sala d’Ambra, ad oggi uno dei più grandi misteri del mondo dell’arte:  sparita ai tempi della Seconda Guerra Mondiale, fu ricostruita con enormi finanziamenti del governo russo e tedesco, e, riaperta al pubblico nel 2003, rappresenta oggi la più grande attrattiva del Palazzo.

Un viaggio di lavoro che si è trasformato in  occasione per conoscere una città affascinante e suggestiva, l’emozione di una crociera notturna sui canali, le luci colorate dei palazzi e dei ponti che si riflettono sulla Neva, i fuochi d’artificio alle spalle, a coronare una serata che resterà per me indimenticabile.

La splendida chiesa del Salvatore sul Sangue Versato, quella fatta a cipolle colorate per intenderci, immensa; a circondarla, da un lato il canale, dall’altro venditori e artisti di strada. E se capitate nei dintorni all’ora di pranzo, entrate a mangiare qualcosa al ristorante Pacman proprio a pochi passi dalla chiesa, il cibo è ottimo, ma la vera sorpresa la troverete alla toilette!

E poi ancora la vodka, lo spezzatino di carne e funghi alla Stroganoff, un classico della cucina locale, ma chi l’ha detto che in Russia si mangia male? Lo so io non faccio testo, mangio e assaggio di tutto, amo i sapori nuovi, forti, la cucina etnica, ma credetemi che le specialità di San Pietroburgo non vi lasceranno insoddisfatti!

Il mio primo assaggio di Russia non poteva andare meglio, una città affascinante che porterò sempre nel cuore, tante cose che ancora mi rimangono da visitare, da scoprire, ma soprattutto da “vivere”, tra la sua gente, all’apparenza glaciale, i suoi caffè e ristoranti raffinati, le sue strade eleganti, le sue boutique alla moda.. Questo è solo un arrivederci San Pietroburgo, alla prossima volta!

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