Romania Travel

Romania – Day 3

Oggi è la giornata più temuta. Ovviamente per le temperature glaciali compulsivamente controllate on line nei giorni precedenti. Si va verso nord, e se il meteo a Bucarest e dintorni è stato clemente, non nutro più alcuna speranza che lo sia anche qui.
Lo so, è solo per abitudine che mi lamento, perché qualcosa per cui lamentarmi la devo trovare sempre. E qui in questi giorni, con Radu ed Elisa, il freddo è l’unico spunto che trovo per fare un po’ di sarcasmo. Tutto procede superando di gran lunga le mie aspettative.

Abbiamo valicato passi di montagna, spalato neve, guidato attraverso boschi innevati circondati da un paesaggio surreale. Abbiamo fatto abbondanti pause caffè per scaldarci lungo la strada e abbiamo riso, tanto, ascoltando alla radio le canzoni della nostra adolescenza perché qui in Romania il tempo, almeno in termini musicali, si è fermato agli anni Novanta.
Abbiamo cantato a squarciagola l’intramontabile Always di Bon Jovi e preso in giro la nostra guida perché Jenny from the block viene trasmessa in loop come fosse la nuova hit dell’estate.
Abbiamo fatto una sosta a Sapanta, sotto la pioggia, per visitare l’irriverente Cimitero Allegro (Cimitirul Vesel) creato dalla fantasia e dall’umorismo dissacratore di un’artista del luogo che nel 1935 ebbe l’idea di scolpire un monumento funebre su cui, oltre alla caricature del defunto, venivano descritti sotto forma di bassorilievi i tratti salienti della sua personalità, accompagnati da frasi ironiche che ne accentuavano vizi e virtù. Stupendo, penso io, che ho sempre visto nell’ironia qualcosa di magico, cercando di farne il mio punto di forza.

Monastero Voronet

La nostra Dacia ci ha condotti indenni fino alla storica regione del Maramures, nel nord del Paese. Una galassia di piccoli villaggi in legno dove la popolazione porta ancora i tipici costumi tradizionali e dove si vive una vita semplice e genuina, nel rispetto delle tradizioni locali.
Abbiamo attraversato la splendida regione della Bucovina, famosa per i suoi incantevoli paesaggi, ma ancora più conosciuta per i suoi bellissimi monasteri affrescati, patrimonio Unesco. Quello che abbiamo visitato è il monastero Voronet del 1488 soprannominato la Cappella Sistina dell’Est Europa e considerato il gioiello della Bucovina per il famoso ciclo di affreschi esterni che decorano la chiesa. Mai avrei pensato di dirlo, ma il freddo e la neve, il silenzio dei pochi turisti per strada e il bianco abbagliante che ancora di più faceva risaltare le pareti colorate del monastero hanno reso l’atmosfera ancora più magica.

Qui ho pranzato a casa di Maria, proprio nel salotto della sua casa sprofondata sotto un metro di neve, qui i ragazzini del vicinato ci hanno accolti improvvisando uno spettacolo di canti e balli tradizionali, qui Maria ci ha sistemato il foulard sulla testa e in un attimo ci siamo trasformate in perfette rom per amici e colleghi che hanno visto le nostre fotografie, e siamo state parte di una famiglia, per noi che quel momento lo abbiamo vissuto e il loro calore lo abbiamo sentito sulla nostra pelle.
Abbiamo mangiato zuppa, involtini di verza e carne trita, salumi e formaggi locali, abbiamo assaggiato le celebri polpettine di Maria, bevuto ottimo vino sfuso e un deliziosio liquore al mirtillo. Ci siamo sentiti come ci si sente a casa, al pranzo della domenica dalla nonna, con tutta la famiglia.

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