Albania

Albania Mon Amour! – Itinerario tra storia, cultura, mare e buon cibo

ksamil

Approfittando del mio lavoro, ma soprattutto sperando in una qualche vantaggiosa quotazione last minute, sono molti che in questi giorni mi stanno chiedendo un consiglio sulle loro vacanze. Per deformazione professionale, e per farmi almeno una vaga idea di cosa proporre nell’immenso ventaglio delle destinazioni che subito mi salterebbero alla mente, la mia prima domanda, pur legittima, ma forse poco ortodossa, è sempre la solita : “Budget?”

E immancabilmente anche la risposta è sempre la stessa : “Vogliamo spendere il meno possibile”.

Bene, se fino ad un paio di anni fa questo mi avrebbe gettato nello sconforto, sono ora invece felice ed entusiasta di potermi giocare la mia carta vincente.

L’Albania.

Un po’ perché spiazzare parenti e amici che da me forse si aspetterebbero tutto tranne una proposta del genere mi diverte, un po’ perché nell’ultimo anno e mezzo in Albania ci sono stata quattro volte e per il suo eccellente rapporto qualità-prezzo e per le tantissime sorprendenti attrattive che offre, è la destinazione che al momento più mi sento di consigliare a chi è in cerca di cultura, bel mare e ottimo cibo, ad un prezzo accettabile per qualsiasi tasca.

Quindi oggi abbandono per un po’ i miei amati 5 stelle per proporvi il mio itinerario in Albania, il mio viaggio del cuore, quello che consiglio agli amici e quello che farei io.
Quello che non prevede hotel di lusso, ma alberghi a conduzione familiare e deliziose guest house, quello che al posto dell’all inclusive di un mega resort porta alla scoperta dell’eccellente cucina albanese, così squisitamente contaminata da quella mediterranea, greca e turca, fatta di prodotti a kilometro zero, pesce freschissimo lungo la costa, carni e formaggi provenienti da allevamenti e pascoli locali e dove frutta e verdura hanno ancora quel profumo che avevano quando ero bambina. Un itinerario che non ti fa stendere sotto il sole di spiagge affollate, ma ti accompagna verso calette deserte dove affittare un ombrellone e un lettino costa ancora pochi centesimi e il colore del mare riflette tutto l’azzurro del cielo.

Un itinerario lungo un Paese dove forse non andresti mai, ma di cui poi alla fine, immancabilmente, ti innamori.

Partite da Tirana e dedicatele almeno due notti. Una città bella, giovane, in continua espansione e piena di vita. La bellissima Piazza Scanderbeg, inaugurata nel giugno del 2017, ha cambiato l’aspetto della città, che ora pullula di negozi e locali alla moda, musei e gallerie d’arte, e riflette tutta la sua voglia di emergere, pur sempre nel rispetto delle tradizioni locali. Scegliete un hotel nel quartiere del Block, il più chic della città, un tempo riservato al dittatore Enver Hoxa e ai capi del suo governo, e ora trasformato nel quartiere più affascinante e animato di Tirana. L’hotel Sky è un’ottima soluzione e si trova proprio sulla via principale, costellata di locali dove fermarsi a bere in drink è quasi un obbligo. In alternativa, molto bello, ma un po’ più costoso, lo Sheraton, al momento l’unico hotel di catena internazionale, nuovo, elegante e a pochi minuti a piedi dal centro.

Tirana, Piazza Scanderbeg

A Tirana non perdetevi il Museo Storico Nazionale, magari accompagnati da una guida privata che vi possa dare una panoramica sulla storia di questo popolo, e una visita al suggestivo Bunk’Art, il bunker antiatomico di Tirana, ora trasformato in un museo. La celebre moschea di Ethem Bey, nel centro della città, è al momento in fase di restauro, ma la vicina e nuovissima Piazza Scanderbeg, dove si tengono abitualmente eventi e concerti, merita senza dubbio una sosta. Concedetevi una passeggiata per il bellissimo Grand Park, il “polmone verde” di Tirana e fermatevi a bere un caffè in uno dei tanti bar all’aperto che si affacciano sulle rive del grande lago artificiale. Se avete tempo, salite in funicolare fino al monte Dajti, la montagna di Tirana, dove troverete almeno un paio di ristorantini in cui si mangia bene spendendo poco, ma soprattutto da cui si gode di una splendida vista panoramica sulla città.

Tirana giratela a piedi, è sicura, tranquilla e molto vivace.

Qualche indirizzo da non perdere per la sera? Il Pepper Lounge è molto di moda, nuovissimo e dal design accattivante, bella musica e ottimi cocktail, al momento il lounge bar più in voga della città. Per un aperitivo o una cena raffinata a base di pesce c’è il Roof Top bar @ Xheko Imperial, location molto bella, cucina buona, anche se un po’ cara.
L’Umami è invece uno dei ristoranti più famosi, aperto dallo chef vincitore di Masterchef Albania, si mangia benissimo! Non è a buon mercato, ma merita sicuramente una visita.

Ma per un’esperienza culinaria da sogno non perdetevi il famoso agriturismo Mrizi i Zanave, a circa 1 ora di macchina dalla capitale. Per me è un un must, eccezionale, per il cibo, la location.. Sicuramente uno dei ristoranti dove ho mangiato meglio nel mondo. Cercatelo in Google e se vi convince prenotatelo, non ne rimarrete delusi.

Da Tirana partite poi verso sud alla volta di Saranda, la località balneare più chic del Paese, spezzando il viaggio con una notte a Valona. Il viaggio lungo la costa è splendido. Attraverserete infatti il passo di LLogara, circondati da un paesaggio naturale che lascia senza fiato. In cima al passo c’è un piccolo bar panoramico che serve squisito yogurt fatto in caso con miele e noci, tutto preparato al momento. Una sosta che consiglio sempre anche per godere del magnifico panorama dalla bellissima terrazza.
Continuate a scendere e vi accorgerete di come il paesaggio inizi a cambiare e il mare ad assumere un tono sempre più chiaro e cristallino. Siamo infatti di fronte alla Grecia, e lo noterete anche da qualche chiesetta bianca dalle cupole blu che fa capolino qua e là, e da un paio di taverne greche che incontrerete lungo la strada e dove i proprietari saranno felici di deliziarvi con agnello alla brace e pane abbrustolito spalmato di salsa tzatziki, e non vi lasceranno andare via senza avervi prima offerto un assaggio dei loro tipici liquori locali.

A Valona prenotate un hotel in centro città, lo Splendor City è a mio parere la migliore soluzione, o nelle vicine località balneari di Dhermi o Himara, centri molto piccoli che non offrono nulla a livello di divertimento serale, ma affacciati su spiagge bellissime e semideserte. Valona è stata da poco rimessa a nuovo e il suo lungomare contornato di palme, inaugurato di recente, richiama quello della più celebre Cannes. E’ piacevole per una passeggiata serale e per un’ottima cena a base di pesce freschissimi, che qui al sud certo non manca.

Da Valona scendete, la mattina seguente, verso Saranda, non senza una sosta fotografica alla baia di Porto Palermo e alla fortezza di Ali Pasha, che incontrerete facilmente lungo la strada. Durante il tragitto non perdetevi le bellissime calette di sabbia bianca finissima che si apriranno, una dopo l’altra, sotto ai vostri occhi. Molte sono attrezzate solo con una manciata di ombrelloni e un chiosco dove bere qualcosa o assaggiare una delle ottime specialità locali. Sceglietevi una  di queste, scendete verso il mare, e godetevi una giornata di relax circondati solo dalla natura e dal suono delle onde e del vento. La mia collega Irene, fresca della sua vacanza in Albania, mi ha appena consigliato la piccola spiaggia di Gjipe, non ci sono mai stata, ma mi è bastato vedere qualche foto per capire che si tratta di un vero e proprio gioiello.

Una volta arrivati fino a Saranda, le possibilità di alloggio sono molteplici: dal bellissimo Bougainville Bay, che stupisce per il suo desing unico e che è l’unica struttura che al momento richiama il concept di un villaggio turistico, al più intimo Demi Hotel, con una splendida e suggestiva piattaforma sul mare dove cenare con deliziosi piatti rigorosamente a base di pesce, fino a una serie infinita di appartamenti, residences e guest house per tutte le tasche.
Saranda è un piccolo centro balneare dove la sera è piacevole passeggiare a piedi tra locali, ristoranti e bancarelle di ogni genere fino al porticciolo costellato di barche di pescatori.
La spiaggia pubblica non è male, ma la vera chicca da non perdere è la spiaggia di Ksamil. Si trova ad una manciata di kilometri a sud della città ed è raggiungibile sia via terra che via mare. Lo spettacolo che si aprirà davanti ai vostri occhi una volta giunti qui, è incredibile: sabbia bianca e fine come borotalco, mare azzurro cielo e tre isolette deserte, raggiungibili anche a nuoto, ricoperte di vegetazione rigogliosa. Un ristorantino panoramico, dove ho mangiato la miglior frittura di pesce di sempre, a completare l’esperienza paradisiaca.

ksamil, saranda, albania

Da Saranda non potete perdere una mezza giornata di escursione al meraviglioso sito archeologico di Butrinto, il più grande dei Balcani e dichiarato patrimonio Unesco. Trascorrerete qualche ora immersi nella vegetazione, alla scoperta delle affascinanti e storiche rovine di una città greco-romana, circondati dal bellissimo lago salato e immersi in un panorama fiabesco. Prendetevi poi una giornata intera da passare a Corfù, che si trova ad una ventina di minuti da Saranda ed è comodamente raggiungibile in traghetto. L’isola è grande, ma qualche ora basterà a farvi respirare la tipica atmosfera greca che da sempre la caratterizza.

butrinto

Una volta che vi sarete goduti qualche giorno di meritato relax al mare, risalite verso Tirana dall’interno del Paese, passando dalla splendida Argirocastro, con le sua stradine di pietra e il suo tipico bazar dove fermarsi a comprare qualche souvenir, e fermatevi a dormire almeno una notte a Berat, praticamente una città-museo, la splendida “città dalle mille finestre” così chiamata per le mille piccole finestre simili a fessure che si trovano nelle case costruite l’una attaccata all’altra e che di notte, illuminate, trasformano la città in un piccolo presepe, donandole un fascino unico e incredibile.

Risalendo verso nord, fate una piccola sosta al famoso e suggestivo Occhio Blu, una piccola sorgente carsica simile ad un cenote, dove l’acqua assume letteralmente mille sfumature di azzurro e dove sarà possibile tuffarsi per un bagno rigenerante nelle sue acque freschissime.

Rientrate quindi a Tirana e, se avete ancora un giorno a disposizione, andate a fare una passeggiata nel caratteristico bazar di Kruja, nel nord del Paese, fermandovi a pranzo in uno dei tanti ristoranti tradizionali che si susseguono nel centro di questa piccola cittadina, simbolo della resistenza anti ottomana. Avrete così un assaggio di quella che è la cucina del nord dell’Albania, con le sue tipiche specialità a base di carne e sfoglie di verdure, formaggio alla piastra e antipasti sfiziosi.

Il mio itinerario termina qui. Ci sarebbero altre migliaia di cose sull’Albania che vi vorrei raccontare, ma mi auguro le possiate scoprire da soli.
Resto in attesa dei vostri commenti e mi auguro di cuore di avervi convinto a dare almeno un’opportunità a questa Terra bellissima che coniuga cultura, archeologia, storia, natura e che vanta un popolo accogliente e caloroso che, nonostante gli evidenti limiti del turismo, che si sta sviluppando solo in questi ultimi anni, si fa in quattro per soddisfare anche il cliente più esigente.

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