Albania

BACK FROM ALBANIA – IL PAESE DELLE AQUILE

11 Gennaio 2010, il mio primo giorno nel Gruppo Alpitour. Ornella e Pier a dare il benvenuto ufficiale alle “nuove leve” assunte nell’ambito del programma 2 X.
Iniziai al Back Office di Viaggidea, una dura e utilissima palestra per chi come me, fresco di università, era convinto di sapere già tutto.
Ero carica di entusiasmo, a volte anche troppo, pagavo l’inesperienza della mia età, ma giorno dopo giorno, anno dopo anno, mi rendevo sempre più conto che la mia strada doveva essere quella del Prodotto.

Quasi 7 anni dopo, eccomi qui, al Prodotto Europa Francorosso, impaziente di muovere i primi passi da sola nel mondo della contrattazione. Finalmente il mio responsabile decide di affidarmi una destinazione, nuova, tutta mia, da “curare” dall’inizio alla fine.. Ci siamo, non vedo l’ora.. Ma di quale destinazione si tratta??

Albania.

Albania..
Ammetto di aver storto un po’ il naso all’inizio, insomma, circondata da cataloghi di mete esotiche e affascinanti, l’Albania non rientrava certamente tra le mie destinazioni, diciamo, favorite. Le immagini delle navi cariche di profughi, oggetto di strumentalizzazione mediatica e politica, hanno fatto sì che per molti anni gli Italiani, me compresa, non guardassero all’Albania come ad una meta per le proprie vacanze.

Ora la situazione sta cambiando. Me ne sono accorta raccogliendo questa sfida e iniziando a studiare più da vicino la destinazione, senza il pregiudizio che troppo spesso la accompagna. Ho così scoperto un Paese dalla storia millenaria, che vanta un’eccezionale patrimonio archeologico, artistico e naturale.

Tirana Clock Tower

Tirana Clock Tower

Mi ritrovo così, a fine gennaio, in partenza per l’Albania, sulla carta così vicina all’Italia, eppure nell’immaginario di tanti italiani molto lontana, misteriosa, forse pericolosa.  Eh sì, perché ad allontanare l’Albania dall’Italia ben oltre i 70 km del Canale d’Otranto, hanno certamente contribuito i decenni di isolamento politico che Tirana visse tra la fine della Seconda Guerra Mondiale e il 1991, nonché le paure e i pregiudizi che la grande emigrazione di massa degli Albanesi negli anni Novanta suscitò nel nostro Paese.

Ma veniamo a noi..

Parto puntualissima alle 9:15 del mattino con il mio volo Blue Panorama diretto a Tirana, ad oggi l’unico aeroporto del Paese. Poco prima dell’arrivo, dopo circa 1 ora e 40 minuti dal decollo, inizio a rendermi conto di quanto il territorio dell’Albania sia montuoso, siamo praticamente circondati dalle Alpi albanesi.
Il volo atterra puntualissimo, i controlli doganali sono veloci e, nonostante l’Albania non faccia ancora ufficialmente parte dell’Unione Europea, per i cittadini italiani è sufficiente la sola carta d’identità per entrare nel Paese. L’aeroporto non è grandissimo, ma è nuovo, pulito e funzionale e soprattutto mi dà subito la sensazione di trovarmi in un Paese moderno e sviluppato.
Qui faccio la mia prima conoscenza con i rappresentanti del nostro corrispondente, non c’è che dire, hanno proprio mandato una bella delegazione ad accoglierci, segno che l’entusiasmo per l’interesse del nostro Gruppo verso il loro Paese è davvero tanto. Questo aspetto sarà una costante del viaggio, ovunque troverò persone gentili, disponibili e alla mano, orgogliose ma allo stesso timorose di darci il benvenuto e farci conoscere la loro terra, ben consapevoli del pregiudizio che ci accompagna, ma con tutta la voglia e l’entusiasmo di farcelo dimenticare.

Inizia così il mio viaggio da nord a sud, dalle montagne al mare, alla scoperta della storia, delle tradizioni e della cultura di un Paese che in soli cinque giorni è davvero riuscito a sorprendermi.
Non scenderò nei dettagli tecnici, per questo c’è il catalogo, e nemmeno vi farò l’elenco di tutte le affascinanti località storiche toccate durante il viaggio, primo perché sarebbe riduttivo e poi perché mi auguro che le possiate vivere anche voi da vicino al più presto.
Vi vorrei invece semplicemente raccontare cosa mi è rimasto più impresso di questa trasferta balcanica, in maniera del tutto soggettiva e personale..

Baia di Porto Palermo

Baia di Porto Palermo

Chi mi conosce sa che, nonostante io cerchi sempre di stare a dieta, il cibo, quello buono, è davvero il mio tallone d’Achille. Come potrei quindi partire non parlandovi in primis dall’aspetto gastronomico, sicuramente uno dei punti di forza della destinazione? Eh sì, perché chi incontra la cucina albanese viene conquistato per sempre dai suoi gustosi piatti tipici a base di fantasia e prodotti freschi locali: verdura “a kilometro zero”, biologica e di stagione, carni tenere e succose provenienti da allevamenti locali e cotte su invitanti griglie fumanti, saporiti prodotti caseari delle vette alpine, ma anche pesce freschissimo dei mari Adriatico e Ionio, le rinomate cozze del lago salato di Butrinto e tanti altri sfiziosi frutti di mare, questi sono solo alcuni degli eccezionali elementi che compongono la proposta gastronomica albanese. Il tutto, naturalmente, innaffiato dall’immancabile rakì, la bevanda nazionale! Terra di grandi incontri e culture, anche in campo culinario, l’Albania ha saputo accogliere e integrare il meglio delle cucine orientali, balcaniche e mediterranee in una fusione originale, esaltata da prodotti di prima qualità. La tradizione storica si è arricchita negli ultimi anni di nuove e suggestive proposte culinarie che tanti chef albanesi, dopo essersi specializzati ai fornelli dei migliori ristoranti europei, hanno introdotto nella scena ristorativa albanese, per la delizia dei nostri palati.

L’avrete capito ormai, se ci tenete a mantenere la linea, preparatevi ad affrontare qualche tosta seduta di palestra al vostro ritorno da questo viaggio, per smaltire qualche peccato di gola che, si sa, in vacanza è pur sempre concesso!

Ma passiamo ad altro..

Non sono forte sulla storia, non è mai stata la mia materia preferita, ma credetemi se vi dico che le meraviglie archeologiche che ho incontrato lungo questo viaggio affascinerebbero anche i più refrattari al fascino romantico delle rovine delle civiltà del passato.
Il più importante sito culturale e turistico dell’intera Albania, il meraviglioso Parco Archeologico di Butrinto, protetto dall’UNESCO e che comprende tra le altre cose le mura e la Porta del Leone di epoca illirica, un magnifico teatro del III secolo a.C. parzialmente sommerso dall’acqua e una grande Basilica cristiana di epoca romana, è certamente il sito storico che più mi ha lasciata senza parole e che, diciamocelo, da solo vale il viaggio. Riscoperta nei primi decenni del Novecento da un giovane archeologo italiano, Butrinto, citata nell’Eneide di Virgilio come insediamento fondato dai fuggitivi troiani, è oggi un percorso affascinante tra storia e cultura, immerso nel verde dei boschi, tra il canto degli uccelli e i suggestivi rumori della natura.. Una tappa imprescindibile del viaggio in Albania.

Butrinto_Anfiteatro romano

Butrinto_Anfiteatro romano

Da Argirocastro, splendida città-museo esempio della più affascinante architettura ottomana, il cui centro storico, dall’architettura unica, è patrimonio dell’UNESCO, viene chiamata la “Fortezza d’argento”: i tetti delle case e le vie della città infatti sono di pietra, così che, soprattutto dopo un’acquazzone, la città pare ricoperta d’argento.. Fino a Berat, la “città dalle mille finestre” così chiamata per l’originale architettura delle case, le une strette alle altre arroccate sulle pendici delle colline, che hanno un incredibile numero di finestre, simili a fessure, sempre aperte per catturare tutta la luce possibile, dando vita ad un risultato estetico sorprendente.. Passando per Apollonia, altro splendido sito archeologico, custode delle rovine di uno dei templi bizantini meglio conservati di tutto il Paese. Mete affascinanti quindi e cariche di suggestione, che hanno convinto anche me che con la storia non ci sono mai andata troppo d’accordo.

Per gli irriducibili dello shopping vale la pena fare una passeggiata nello storico bazar di Kruja, nel nord del Paese, tra botteghe di artigianato locale, stoffe, tappeti, ceramiche e quant’altro, qui i prezzi sono bassi, non c’è nemmeno bisogno di contrattare! La salita alle rovine del Castello di Rozafa, a Scutari – non vi racconto della sua storia struggente, andate a leggerla nelle guide! – e ancora la splendida baia di Porto Palermo, la Fortezza di Ali Pasha, la sorgente dell’Occhio Blu.. sono solo alcuni dei luoghi sorprendenti che ho potuto visitare in questo viaggio..

Kruja_Bazar

Kruja_Bazar

E come non parlare poi dei colori del mare, delle ampie spiagge della costa di Durazzo, fino alle splendide calette rocciose di Saranda, passando per Valona, la cui baia segna il confine tra l’Adriatico e lo Ionio. Tre vivaci centri balneari che si estendono lungo la costa, da nord a sud, costellati di ristoranti e locali con ampie terrazze affacciate sul mare, dove potersi rilassare e bere qualcosa a prezzi per noi ridicoli..

Dhermi

Dhermi

Adesso che sto scrivendo, i ricordi si fanno sempre più nitidi e vorrei potervi raccontare per filo e per segno di tutte le sorprendenti bellezze di questo Paese, ma la mia collega Carla qui di fianco a me mi sta tirando occhiatacce da tutta la mattina.. Vorrà forse farmi capire che mi sto dilungando troppo?!

Si forse Carla ha proprio ragione, ma questa terra mi ha davvero stupita ed entusiasmata, dall’accoglienza calorosa della sua gente, che parla e capisce perfettamente la nostra lingua, ai paesaggi sempre diversi, alle sue strade contorte che si arrampicano sulle montagne per poi riscendere ripide verso il mare, alla vivacità di Tirana, ponte tra Occidente e Oriente, avida di modernità e progresso, fino ai piccoli villaggi rurali, ai caotici e colorati mercati locali.

Cosa mi rimarrà di questo viaggio? Tante cose, ma sicuramente la lezione più importante che ho imparato è stata quella di non giudicare un popolo e un Paese senza prima averli conosciuti da vicino, senza prima averli “vissuti”. Non mi resta a questo punto che augurarvi Buon viaggio.. o meglio, Rrugë të mbarë!

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