Maldive

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Mandhoo Island

Succede che è una sera di metà settembre e sono in aeroporto a Catania in attesa del mio volo per Malpensa. Ho il cellulare quasi completamente scarico, ma c’è una email che voglio assolutamente riuscire a leggere prima di imbarcarmi.
A scrivermi è Marzia, Marketing Director del South Ari Inn, una nuova guest house nell’atollo di Ari Sud, Maldive.
Mi parla del suo progetto, del colpo di fulmine avuto solo qualche mese prima per l’isola di Mandhoo, ancora incontaminata e lontana dalle rotte del turismo di massa. Mi racconta con entusiasmo della bellezza del reef, della gentilezza e della disponibilità dei due proprietari maldiviani, ma anche della fatica di commercializzare in Italia e in Europa un prodotto difficile da piazzare a chi le Maldive le concepisce solo in Resort all inclusive.
Come darle torto, io stessa fino a quel momento nemmeno sospettavo che alle Maldive ci fossero anche le guest house.
Guest house poi.
Parola che non mi faceva certo fare i salti di gioia.
Pensavo a tutti quegli influencers che venivano invitati in hotel super lusso, mentre a me invece con il mio piccolo profilo Instagram che rasentava i 90 k, mi sarebbe toccato il 3 stelle, ma nemmeno, una guest house.
Per giunta su un’isola abitata da locali e con scarsa possibilità di far arrivare qualche bevanda alcolica.

Il giorno dopo lo racconto in ufficio e mi sembra di rivivere i momenti di ilarità generale che precedevano le mie trasferte in Albania e Romania, Claudia in una guest house non si può sentire, scappa ancora prima di arrivare, e probabilmente era ciò che pensavo anch’io.

Ma la voglia di prendere un’aereo è altissima e il bisogno di mettere una distanza sempre più grande tra me e la routine quotidiana mi spinge a richiamare Marzia.

Succede che in una mattina di fine settembre restiamo più di un’ora al telefono e lei mi rapisce con il suo entusiasmo e la sua passione per un progetto che ha fatto suo da meno di un anno, ma che ormai fa parte della sua vita.
Mi racconta di Tubbs, il suo eccentrico socio maldiviano dai lunghissimi rasta biondi e che a vederlo di maldiviano ha ben poco. Mi parla dell’isola di Mandhoo ancora vergine, della gente locale molto accogliente e tollerante, della bikini beach che è stata adibita a spiaggia per turisti e dove, appunto, si può prendere il sole anche in bikini, delle uscite di snorkeling, dei barbecue sull’isola deserta, dei tramonti infuocati, delle tartarughe e dei delfini.

Succede che mi incuriosisce e mi fa venire voglia di toccare con mano questa realtà completamente diversa da ciò a cui sono abituata, da ciò che amo, che mi esalta, che mi appassiona.
Ci passerò solo due notti, penso io, e per sicurezza confermo le due successive a Thudufushi, top di gamma Francorosso, per essere certa di concludere in bellezza la mia trasferta maldiviana.
Se qui al South Ari Inn non mi dovessi trovare bene, il soggiorno a Thudu mi farà dimenticare tutto.

E così mi ritrovo da sola in aeroporto a Male, in attesa di un volo di circa 25 minuti per Maamigili, dove mi aspetta un trasferimento in barca veloce verso Mandhoo.
Ho salutato tutti i compagni di viaggio della crociera, quelli che tornano a casa e quelli che restano qui alle Maldive ancora per un po’. Dopo un’intera settimana in compagnia, a condividere lo spazio di una barca, i pranzi, le cene, le chiacchierate, l’idea di restare da sola per i prossimi due giorni inaspettatamente non mi entusiasma come avrei pensato.
Ma ormai è fatta mi dico, sono solo due notti.

Atterro all’aeroporto di Maamigili e puntuale la speady boat del South Ari Inn è arrivata a prendermi.
Ho la barca tutta per me, il mare è una tavola, l’atollo di Ari Sud è qualcosa di meraviglioso.
Non posso fare a meno di pensare che solo qualche giorno fa eravamo ancorati qui con Ocean Sapphire, uno ad uno ripercorro quei giorni, quando Ennio da lontano mi mostrava l’isola di Mandhoo e scherzando mi diceva di stare attenta ai topi e alle zanzare. Ricaccio indietro quel po’ di malinconia, non posso permettermelo, sono pur sempre in un paradiso.
Mi guardo intorno, il cielo senza nuvole, il mare cristallino, il vento sul viso mentre la nostra barca sfreccia verso questa nuova meta. Non c’è istante in cui non pensi a quanto sono fortunata, e non solo lo penso, lo grido anche.
Tanto il rumore del motore copre abbondantemente la mia voce.
Penso a come saranno questi due giorni, se troverò la camera pulita come mi sono raccomandata più volte con Marzia al telefono prima della partenza, se mi annoierò a non avere nessuno intorno, se mi saprò adattare ad un contesto a cui proprio non sono abituata.

south ari inn, mandhoo island

Succede che più la barca si avvicina a Mandhoo e più il mare assume sfumature verde acqua. L’isola è grande e la vegetazione è rigogliosa, verde ovunque, che si riflette nella laguna. Non so cosa mi sarei aspettata, o forse le mie aspettative erano talmente basse per aspettarmi qualsiasi cosa.
Tubbs, il socio maldiviano di Marzia, mi aspetta al molo.
Mi dà una mano con la Samsonite nuova di pacca che qui mi pare così fuori luogo, carica me e la mia valigia sul buggy – prima sorpresa del soggiorno – e in meno di un minuto siamo all’ingresso del South Ari Inn.
Ora non ci crederete, o forse si, ma io non ho mai visto una guest house, e questo che mi si presenta di fronte lo definirei più un piccolo boutique hotel di sette camere nuovissime, grandi, luminose, accessoriate di ogni cosa, dal fondamentale bollitore del tè e caffè, al set di cortesia da bagno. Arredi semplici, ma nuovi e funzionali, armadio enorme, doccia che ci staremmo in tre, pulizia impeccabile.
Wi-Fi all’inizio un po’ lento, ma che poi dietro mia immediata segnalazione è partito come una scheggia.
La prima impressione riesce a spazzare via la malinconia di trovarmi qui da sola, penso ai miei amici in viaggio verso casa, mi godrò questi ultimi giorni di estate anche per loro.

Succede che ormai sono quasi le 13 e la sala che ospita il ristorante è stata apparecchiata per me e imbandita con la miglior cucina che io abbia mai assaggiato alle Maldive, Resort 5 stelle inclusi.
Seconda sorpresa, lo chef è davvero strepitoso. Pesce fresco, verdure al forno, bruschette, caponata di melanzane, solo per dire alcune specialità della cucina mediterranea che ogni giorno mi trovavo servite a tavola. E poi noodles, riso con le verdure, pollo che io non mangio mai ma che lì ho divorato. Crème Caramel per dessert, Nutella e succo fresco di papaya a colazione, se in crociera il menù concepito per i subacquei mi aveva aiutato a rimanere leggera, qui avrei di gran lunga recuperato ogni etto perso. E alla fine di ogni pasto veniva lui, il piccolo chef maldiviano che con il suo sorriso umile mi chiedeva se mi fosse piaciuto tutto. Diciamo che il piatto pulito parlava da sé.

south ari inn, mandhoo island

Ma South Ari Inn è stato più di una cucina sublime che ancora mi sogno.
È stato il tramonto sull’isola deserta proprio di fronte a Mandhoo, la prima sera insieme a Tubbs che ha esaurito le batteria della sua Go Pro a furia di scattarmi fotografie. È stato il bellissimo pareo che mi hanno regalato per coprirmi perché in alcune parti dell’isola non si può girare in costume e forse pensavano che la cosa potesse mettermi a disagio. È stato la meravigliosa giornata a fare snorkeling nella laguna più bella che avessi mai visto, all’inseguimento di delfini e tartarughe, con il sorriso stampato in faccia, il sole che nel frattempo mi aveva bruciato la schiena e quel mare, Dio che mare, il più bello che esista al mondo. Il pranzo sotto le palme allestito apposta per me sull’isola deserta, le passeggiate sulla spiaggia, il relax sull’amaca mentre mi divoravano le zanzare, ma quel momento era perfetto così.
Tubbs che mi offriva una sigaretta ogni tanto, che con i suoi modi un po’ timidi e un po’ eccentrici mi teneva compagnia la sera nella veranda, davanti a un caffè o a una tazza di tè. Che mi mostrava orgoglioso le tantissime escursioni che organizzava per i suoi ospiti, i lavori al nuovo centro diving, il progetto di acquistare bevande alcoliche a bordo di una safari boat perché, diciamocelo, quei tramonti pazzeschi sarebbero ben valsi una birra ghiacciata.
In lui ritrovo tutto l’entusiasmo di Marzia, e anche di più. Forse non si rende conto delle difficoltà di portare persone qui, di far conoscere una realtà locale così diversa da quella a cui siamo abituati e che ci viene in mente appena sentiamo la parola “Maldive”.

south ari inn, mandhoo island

Ecco, per me Maldive aveva sempre fatto rima con Resort di lusso. E anche oggi forse continuerà a farlo.
Non ho scoperto un’improvvisa passione per le guest house, nonostante un soggiorno che ha superato di gran lunga ogni mia più rosea aspettativa, né intendo abbandonare così presto le mie classiche vacanze tutto incluso.

Quello che ho scoperto invece è un’altra realtà, parallela a quella dei Resort, che nemmeno sospettavo esistesse.
Ho scoperto che le Maldive, questo paradiso, sono accessibili anche a chi non ha a disposizione un budget stellare.
Che non si tratta di fare rinunce, ma di adattarsi al silenzio, al relax, ad un buffet più piccolo, ma eccezionale.
Adattarsi alla gente locale che ti guarda e ti sorride timida mentre cammini per strada, alle case colorate, alla vegetazione brulla, adattarsi a ritmi di vita che non sono quelli scanditi dai classici appuntamenti dei villaggi, ma sono i nostri stessi ritmi, quelli che noi vogliamo e scegliamo che siano. Perché qui a South Ari Inn di appuntamenti fissi non ce ne sono, a parte quello con una natura incontaminata che è tutta da scoprire e che ti lascia senza fiato. Qui nessuno ti dice cosa devi fare o come ti devi vestire, infradito e pareo sono stati il mio abito per colazione, pranzo e anche cena.
Il silenzio, i miei pensieri davanti a un tramonto, il rumore del vento e del mare. Mi sono vestita di tutto questo, mi sono guardata dentro e mi sono ripetuta, per l’ennesima volta, cavolo Claudia quanto sei fortunata.
E non solo per i viaggi da mille e una notte, stavolta anche per aver avuto la voglia, l’entusiasmo e la curiosità di vivere un’esperienza lontana dal mio quotidiano, ma più vicina alla vita del Paese che mi ha ospitato e che non smetterò mai di considerare come uno dei più belli del mondo. L’unico capace di farmi sentire serena, felice e in pace con me stessa. E anche questa volta è stato così.

Quindi grazie Marzia, per essere arrivata a me non so come, per avermi portata con il tuo entusiasmo alla scoperta di quel tuo angolo di paradiso che mi auguro sempre più persone possano scoprire. Per le telefonate, le rassicurazioni, l’aver fatto sì che il mio soggiorno fosse perfetto. Per avermi regalato due giorni impagabili di relax, mare, sole e natura. E di ottima cucina, so che stona, ma proprio non riesco a non dirlo.
Grazie per avermi dato le chiavi di quest’oasi di pace fuori dal mondo, per avermelo fatto sentire anche un po’ mio, per i tuoi racconti, le confidenze e la passione che metti in quello in cui credi.
Per avermici condotto e avermene fatto parlare, di questo posto in cui mani avrei pensato di approdare, ma che ora sono felice di aver conosciuto, vissuto, amato e raccontato.

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