Marocco

Marocco – Chefchaouen, impressioni dalla Città Blu

È iniziato tutto con l’idea di un workshop fotografico. Io che dopo mille indecisioni ho comprato la mia prima reflex a giugno e l’ho accesa per la prima volta in agosto, io che amo scrivere e raccontare, ma che vorrei anche imparare a fotografare.
Il programma prometteva bene. Marocco. Finalmente una destinazione in cui non ero mai stata e che dopo un lungo periodo turbolento stava piano piano tornando in auge anche sul mercato turistico italiano.
Fez, Meknes, ma soprattutto Chefchaouen, la Città Blu.

Vista per la prima volta su Instagram qualche anno fa, indubbiamente la città marocchina più “instagrammata” dopo Marrakech, e raccontatami lo scorso anno con entusiasmo dal mio collega Massimiliano, reduce da una trasferta nel nord del Marocco.
Ricordo che fui colpita quando mi raccontò che la Città Blu non era altro che una ben riuscita operazione di marketing turistico: non vi è nulla di storico infatti nel blu degli edifici della città, da qualche anno gli abitanti ne dipingono le abitazioni di azzurro ad ogni primavera, in modo da conferirle un aspetto sempre fresco e brillante, in grado di attirare un numero sempre maggiore di visitatori con il suo fascino unico al mondo.

Sarebbe stata per questo meno interessante o suggestiva?
Il momento di scoprirlo era finalmente arrivato anche per me.

chefchaouen

Non meno di un giorno e non più di tre, Chefchaouen merita quantomeno un weekend.
Deliziosa, romantica, affascinante e così diversa da quel poco di Marocco visto finora. Un gioiello, anzi, una perla, la Perla Blu, come spesso viene soprannominata dai locali.
Poche le strutture ricettive della cittadina, quasi inesistenti quelle degne di nota, ragion per cui spesso si sceglie di visitare Chefchaouen con un’escursione in giornata da Tangeri.
Nemmeno le decine di ristoranti che si alternano attorno alla piazza centrale o nelle vie più interne, nonostante i colori sgargianti e un aspetto accattivante, riescono ad esprimere al meglio la bontà e la peculiarità della cucina marocchina. Qui il turismo sembra ancora alle prime armi, eccezion fatta per le caratteristiche botteghe artigianali di stoffe e argenti, dove contrattare il prezzo di pashmine, anelli e collane è un passatempo divertente, oltre che un’attività obbligatoria. Sicuramente il miglior shopping del mio soggiorno in Marocco, vuoi per i prezzi abbordabili o perché la merce viene esposta e appesa all’esterno, tra le mura turchesi della città a fare da contrasto, e i colori dei vestiti, delle borse, dei caftani risplendono come non mai, richiamo impossibile da ignorare per una malata di shopping come me.

Forse qui non ho dormito nell’hotel più lussuoso della mia vita o non ho assaggiato la cucina migliore del Marocco, ma le mie due notti a Chefchaouen hanno avuto un sapore magico.
(E hanno anche prodotto alcune tra le più belle fotografie che io abbia mai scattato nella mia vita).

chefchaouen

Ospite di un piccolo Riad a conduzione familiare, modesto nelle dimensioni delle stanze e abbondante nelle porzioni della sontuosa colazione tradizionale preparata al momento, dove uova fresche, sfoglie, burro, marmellate e altre specialità locali non sono mai mancate, la mia sistemazione era proprio nel cuore della città, in una delle labirintiche strade in cui orientarmi era un’impresa titanica, in cui il blu che avvolge ogni via mi privava di qualsiasi punto di riferimento. Io che mi perdo anche tra le mura di un hotel e che se devo andare a sinistra sicuramente giro a destra, non sono mai stata così felice del mio scarso senso dell’orientamento come qui a Chefchaouen, dove ad ogni strada sbagliata c’è un piccolo mondo che ti si apre davanti agli occhi, dove cercando lo scorcio perfetto ci si ritrova in casa di qualcuno che ti offre un tè caldo, o in mezzo ai bambini in divisa che escono da scuola, o tra un gruppo di signore che con i loro foulard colorati bene starebbero dentro una fotografia, ma che ti puntano addosso il bastone appena tu punti verso di loro l’obbiettivo.
Gattini, un’infinità, piccoli, bellissimi, in ogni strada della città, che ti si strusciano addosso regalandoti qualche attimo di dolcezza e anche, perché no, occasioni per uno scatto perfetto.
Un suggestivo andirivieni di angoli e scorci carichi di un fascino quasi inesprimibile a parole, salite, discese, gradini che si fanno quasi in automatico senza sentire la stanchezza e le gambe che ti cedono, perché tanta è la voglia di scoprire la città, rigorosamente a piedi.
Sfumature di blu, celeste e glicine che si alternano sulle mura delle case dando vita ad un panorama sempre nuovo, ma allo stesso tempo magicamente uguale.

Loro, i fotografi, che non si perdono una scatto, io, che questa città la voglio raccontare anche a parole, che quasi mi dimentico dello scopo di questo viaggio, a parte quando mi offro (più che volentieri) ai loro obbiettivi.
Un’atmosfera fiabesca, un affascinante gioco di luci e ombre che io fatico ad immortalare, ma che rivedo perfetto negli scatti dei miei compagni di viaggio.
La nostra cena nella grande piazza centrale, illuminata e piena di persone, animata da artisti di strada e venditori ambulanti, l’entusiasmo per la prima birra di tutto il viaggio, rigorosamente analcolica, il solito cous cous, la solita tajine, qualcuno prova anche le acciughe fritte, l’immancabile tè alla menta accompagnato da dolci locali che solo io me ne mangio mezzo vassoio.
I fiori e i vasi variopinti all’esterno delle porte, anche loro dipinte di blu, a creare meravigliosi contrasti di colori, uno spettacolo per chi sta dietro un obbiettivo, ma anche per chi, come me, questa città la vive con i propri occhi.
Le sue strade sempre diverse eppure così incredibilmente uguali, che se non fosse stato per Massimo, che si divertiva a vedermi sbagliare strada, e un po’ forse anche mi sfotteva ad ogni incrocio, mi sarei persa più di quanto non abbia fatto.

Aspettative soddisfatte quindi, nonostante una storia che non racconta così tanto quanto quella di una città imperiale.
Chefchaouen merita, eccome se merita.

Dormiteci almeno un paio di notti, non puntate al lusso perché qui non esiste, ma ad una sistemazione non troppo lontano dalla strada principale dove vi lascerà il taxi, perché scarrozzarsi le valige per le vie intricate della città e sotto un sole cocente non è così piacevole. (Grazie Tour Marocco per aver pensato anche a questo).
Alzatevi all’alba anche se non siete dei fotografi (ma copritevi perché la mattina fa freddo), camminate senza una meta precisa per le vie deserte e lasciate che il profumo di dolci e di pane fresco vi inebri.
Entrate nei piccoli negozi di artigianato locale e lasciatevi conquistare dai gioielli e dai tessuti tradizionali, giocate al ribasso perché qui la contrattazione è un’arte e celebrate i vostri acquisti con bollente tè alla menta.
Mangiate nella piazza che alla sera risplende di luci e musica, la cucina marocchina è squisita, basta solo trovare il posto giusto. E dove la cucina non arriva, arriva l’atmosfera, che fa dimenticare tutto il resto.

chefchaouen

Scattate con lo smartphone se solo quello avete, ma state attenti ad alcuni piccoli accorgimenti, non fotografate a caso perché quelli saranno i ricordi che vi porterete a casa di questa magica città.
Se c’è una cosa che questo workshop, e Laura tra i tanti, mi ha insegnato è il valore di ogni scatto. Non basta premere un tasto e scattare a casaccio solo per dire “Ci sono stata”, la fotografia è l’espressione di un’emozione, delle sensazioni che un luogo, una persona, ci trasmettono, ho imparato a non sminuirla con centinaia di fotografie inutili, ma a cercare di averne cura.
Chefchaouen è stata una palestra incredibile, anche per me per la quale la reflex ha ancora tantissimi segreti, non ho portato a casa lezioni teoriche, ma grandi insegnamenti sul campo.

Dalle foto che i miei compagni di viaggio iniziano a pubblicare traspare con chiarezza cosa significhi per loro la fotografia, con quanta cura e professionalità hanno intrapreso questo viaggio.
Sarebbe come per me leggere un testo pieno di errori e sapere che l’autore ne andasse fiero.
Chefchaouen mi ha regalato alcuni scatti meravigliosi, fatti dai miei compagni di viaggio s’intende, e nei quali io sono la protagonista.
Se con me non ci fossero stati loro probabilmente non avrei portato a casa tanta bellezza, tanti ricordi splendidi, se non ci fosse stato questo workshop probabilmente avrei continuato a scattare a casaccio che tanto qualcosa di bello alla fine viene fuori.
Si, lo confermo, qualcosa di bello viene fuori, perché in una città così affascinante e unica al mondo bisogna davvero impegnarsi per non riuscire a tirar fuori una fotografia ben riuscita.
Ma questo sminuisce il lavoro di chi ci mette tutta la propria passione, di Massimo che si alza all’alba per catturare la luce del mattino, di Graziano che esce di notte alla ricerca di spunti per il suo nuovo progetto fotografico, di Gian Piero così meticoloso ad ogni scatto.

Di fotografia non capisco nulla, ma l’attenzione e la cura dei dettagli quella non dipende dall’abilità e dall’esperienza, ma solo da me stessa, dalla passione e dall’amore che decido, consapevolmente, di mettere in quello che faccio.

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    Un po ‘di storia di Chefchaouen. La città di Chefchaouen fu fondata nel 1471 da Mulay Ali Ben Rachid. Situato in un luogo difficile di accesso.
    Grazie Claudia per l’articolo è davvero molto utile avere persone che raccontano l’esperienza del suo viaggio, anche bella foto che riassume la sua storia

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