Vietnam

Phu Quoc – Esplorando

Phu Quoc, Fingernail island

Di ritorno dal Vietnam, mentre raccontavo le mie impressioni di viaggio ad amici per i quali Phu Quoc sarebbe potuta benissimo essere un frutto tropicale o una cittadina sperduta della campagna cinese, mi è stato chiesto varie volte cosa più di tutto mi avesse colpito di questa destinazione e il perché del mio tono così entusiasta nel parlarne.
Premesso che l’entusiasmo è la costante che accompagna da sempre ogni mio viaggio e dichiarato ormai apertamente che le persone conosciute in Vietnam hanno reso questo appena passato un viaggio indimenticabile, non posso però negare che quest’isola dal sapore un po’ agrodolce alla fine mi abbia a suo modo conquistata. Un po’ perché dormire nel lusso di eleganti hotel 5 stelle conquisterebbe a mio avviso chiunque, un po’ perché qui, vuoi che l’isola è ancora immune al turismo di massa, ho avuto la possibilità di vivere esperienze autentiche che hanno dato valore e caricato di significato il mio viaggio.
Elencarle non è ahimè nel mio stile, ma proverò comunque a raccontarvele, senza un ordine preciso e un po’ intrise delle sensazioni che mi hanno lasciato.

Noleggiare un motorino a Phu Quoc è impresa abbastanza semplice.
Sfidare la sorte e gettarsi a due ruote nel traffico di Duong Dong lo è un po’ meno.
D’altro canto, sfrecciare con uno scooter dribblando auto, biciclette, pedoni e motorini è un’esperienza che vi eleverà più di tutte all’ambito status di vero vietnamita, e che, se sarete tanto fortunati da poterla raccontare, vi trasformerà nell’idolo, mio in primis, e di chiunque abbia mai messo piede in Vietnam e non abbia avuto il fegato di cimentarsi in una guida che non conosce regole tranne una: mano sul calcson, sempre.

Una volta presa confidenza con il proprio mezzo, qualunque esso sia (nel mio caso un comodo minivan con autista), non resta che guidare (o lasciarsi guidare) verso la spiaggia che più di tutte riassume l’anima contradditoria di quest’isola, la bellissima Sao Beach. Mare cristallino agitato dal vento, sabbia bianca e fine come borotalco, una serie di piccoli beach club in cui affittare lettini e ombrelloni a prezzi ridicoli, ma soprattutto un’atmosfera unica. La spiaggia più popolare e cool dell’isola, invasa dai turisti, ma mai così affollata da risultare invivibile.
Musica, birra ghiacciata, un mango così dolce che emoziona, loro, la gente locale, a mangiare noodles fumanti all’ombra di un chiosco di legno sgangherato. Una spiaggia da vivere per una giornata intera, acque turchesi da un lato, accumuli di rifiuti poco distante.
Ma anche questa è Sao Beach. Anche questa è Phu Quoc. Anche questa è l’Asia.

Un mare e una spiaggia incontaminate e un’isola ancora vergine, li ho trovati invece a Fingernail, nell’arcipelago delle Isole del Sud.
Raggiungibile in barca, dista poco più di un’ora di navigazione dal porto turistico di Phu Quoc, ma lo spettacolo che si apre alla vista mentre ci si avvicina alla costa, da solo vale il viaggio. Una distesa di sabbia bianca che abbaglia, una piscina dall’acqua color smeraldo che invita a tuffarcisi dentro ancora prima che la barca abbia raggiunto la spiaggia, un chiosco che sprigiona odore di cibo, odore di Asia.
E poi scogli e palme a delimitarne suggestivi il perimetro. Una giornata bellissima che ha prodotto le migliori fotografie di sempre, e che oggi, a riguardarle, sale un pizzico di malinconia.

Per me è stato il caldo afoso, le risate in cabinovia immaginando le performances dei fotografi all’assalto del panorama, lo sguardo incollato alle vetrate per non perdere nemmeno un centimetro della meraviglia che scorreva sotto di noi, le sfumature blu del mare, le costellazioni di barche colorate, un tradizionale villaggio di pescatori. L’emozione di trovarsi a 165 metri di altezza a bordo di un capolavoro tutto italiano.
Inaugurata il 4 Febbraio di quest’anno, la cabinovia più lunga del mondo si trova infatti, incredibilmente, proprio qui in Vietnam.
Con i suoi 7.899 km di lunghezza, questa esclusiva funivia dei record collega, in meno di venti minuti, l’isola di Phu Quoc al Sun World Hon Thom Nature Park, nell’isola di Hon Thom. Non solo per tuffarsi nelle acque limpide di Pineapple Beach, ma anche e soprattutto per godere di una vista impagabile dell’arcipelago delle Isole del Sud, farsi un giro quassù è ormai diventato un must. Andateci, se potete, prima che l’isola venga trasformata in un grande parco divertimenti.

Non è la bontà della cucina e nemmeno l’economicità del prezzo, ad attirarmi  al Night Market per la cena è senza dubbio l’atmosfera.
Perché rinunciare ad un più invitante buffet all inclusive o ad una raffinata cena à la carte?
Semplice. Qui al Dinh Cau Night Market ci si sente liberi.
Liberi dalle convenzioni dei Resort di lusso, liberi dai buffet standardizzati, angolo della pasta e show cooking per i più fortunati, vegetarian and gluten free corner per i salutisti, liberi di bere una birra a canna, di cenare in infradito da spiaggia, liberi anche, a volte, dall’obbligo di usare le posate a tavola. Ma soprattutto ci si sente parte di quella realtà.
Se una serata al Night Market è un’esperienza, mangiare con le mani pesce fresco grigliato al momento accompagnato da uno squisito mix di pepe locale e lime è una vera goduria. Osservare Phu Quoc che si muove tutt’intorno tra luci, musica, chiasso e confusione, restarne estasiati.
Sentirsi parte dell’isola, sentirsi dentro l’isola, sentirsi vivi.

Per vivere un’esperienza sicuramente meno autentica, ma ugualmente entusiasmante, vale la pena passare una giornata all’incantevole JW Marriott Emerald Bay, all’estremo sud dell’isola. Se creatività e fantasia potessero essere ricondotte ad un luogo, il mondo immaginario della Lamarck University, in cui si viene catapultati varcando le soglie del nuovissimo JW Marriott Emerald Bay, sarebbe il posto perfetto.
Andando oltre il tradizionale modello di resort di lusso, il pluripremiato architetto d’interni Bill Bensley non ha infatti voluto solo costruire un hotel, ha creato una vera e propria esperienza.
Aperto da solo un anno e affacciato sulla più bella spiaggia dell’isola di Phu Quoc, Kem Beach, il JW Marriott ha stile e personalità da vendere. Tutta l’architettura richiama infatti la storia costruita intorno al Resort, dai ricercati oggetti di arredamento, alle divise dello staff, dall’originaria via del mercato, Rue de Lamarck, alla finta biblioteca vittoriana, fino ai dipartimenti Art Deco convertiti in camere da letto, suite e ville.
Lasciatevi conquistare da un cocktail a base di rum e pepe locale, lo stuzzicante Stolen From Red Rum, da sorseggiare all’ombra di un tavolo del Department of Chemistry Bar, oppure lasciate che il vostro sguardo si perda incuriosito a catturare i tanti dettagli architettonici che fanno di questo luogo un Resort dal concept unico e inimitabile. Consapevole del proprio fascino, il Resort mette a disposizione un numero contingentato di ingressi giornalieri che regalano, anche a chi non soggiorna in hotel, un assaggio della magia che qui si respira.

Ma un soggiorno sull’isola di Phu Quoc non sarebbe completo senza un drink al Rory’s.
Ne sentivo parlare da mesi, così decisi che l’ultima serata del nostro viaggio stampa doveva essere lì.
Cocktail non perfettamente riusciti, prezzi non economici ma abbordabili, qui al Rory’s Bar ci si viene, però, per l’atmosfera.
E lo sanno bene i turisti che si accalcano al bancone o che affollano la spiaggia, tanto che trovare un tavolo libero alle 9 di sera diventa quasi un’impresa. E’ il punto di ritrovo più accreditato anche per i tanti stranieri che lavorano sull’isola, e questo la dice lunga.
Luci colorate, suggestive lanterne, buona musica e uno strepitoso affaccio sul mare fanno di questo locale la location perfetta per una serata in compagnia, in coppia, o perchè no anche da soli.
E’ stato il mio ultimo, bellissimo, ricordo dell’isola, facile intuire come io sia di parte.

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