Raja Ampat

Raja Ampat – Dove il lusso è la natura che ti circonda

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Condivido questo post dopo mesi, l’ho trovato già pronto nelle note del cellulare, scritto forse in treno a pochi giorni dal mio rientro da Raja Ampat.
Gli ultimi quattro mesi li potrei definire di transizione, ho capito di non poter accettare più alcune condizioni che mi andavano strette, ho preso delle decisioni che erano lì ferme da troppo tempo, ho imparato ad ascoltarmi ma, non sempre, a darmi ragione. Ho imparato che ci sono dinamiche e situazioni più grandi di me a cui, che lo si voglia o no, bisogna sottostare, almeno per un po’. Non ho imparato la pazienza, e ancora “friggo” dentro per tutto ciò che vorrei cambiare o avere, ma guardo il bicchiere e inizio a vederlo mezzo pieno, o quantomeno in fase di riempimento..

È sabato pomeriggio, sto facendo ordine nel mio studio e per caso mi ritrovo a leggere uno dei primi articoli scritti per la rivista di subacquea ScubaZone, credo sia di tre o quattro mesi fa. Parlavo di Raja Ampat, ancora prima di partire, di quello che ne sentivo raccontare, delle mie aspettative su una vacanza che allora avrei definito “non proprio nelle mie corde”.
E che invece lo è stata. In tutto e per tutto.
A partire da un viaggio durato 36 ore che ha messo alla prova la mia resistenza fisica come nessun altro prima e che mi ha dimostrato che sono ancora in grado di affrontare notti insonni, jet lag e poco invitanti pasti di economy class.
Un viaggio che ha messo non poco alla prova anche i miei nervi quando, al check-in a Malpensa, la hostess di Qatar Airways mi rifiutava l’imbarco per un passaporto che mi ha accompagnata ovunque per 9 anni e che per la prima volta è stato definito “non propriamente integro” a causa di un taglio di circa mezzo centimentro proprio all’altezza della foto. Un’attesa snervante di quasi due ore, un Ok dell’immigration di Jakarta che sembrava non arrivare più, ma che alla fine è arrivato, ad una manciata di minuti dalla chiusura del check-in. Un gin tonic buttato giù alla goccia prima dell’imbarco per stemperare la tensione e un comodo viaggio verso Doha, uno meno comodo verso Jakarta e un’altro da dimenticare verso il piccolo aeroporto di Sorong, West Papua. Un’auto che mi ha letteralmente trascinata al porto mentre lottavo contro il sonno e un’ora e mezza di barca verso l’isola di Agusta, sono stati l’ultimo step di questo viaggio che sembrava infinito, iniziato giovedì pomeriggio e terminato sabato mattina. Ma di cui ricordo ancora tutto come fosse ieri.

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Rileggendo quell’articolo non posso fare a meno di pensare che le parole scritte pochi mesi fa non avevano per nulla reso giustizia ad un luogo, ancora incontaminato e lontano dalle classiche mete del turismo di massa, la cui bellezza è difficile da spiegare.
Parlo dei colori del mare che spaziano dall’azzurro del cielo al verde smeraldo della vegetazione, parlo dell’incanto della laguna di Piaynemo dove, dall’acqua cristallina, si innalzano decine di faraglioni che regalano ai pochi fortunati turisti un panorama mozzafiato, che da solo vale il viaggio.
Parlo dei villaggi locali intrisi di credenze popolari, dove bambini di colore piangono alla vista dell’uomo bianco, pensando sia un fantasma, ma che poi ti inseguono curiosi per tutta l’isola, accettando felici qualche biscotto.
E poi parlo del vero protagonista di questa storia, quel mondo sottomarino scoperto solo poco tempo fa e che tanto ora mi affascina.

Qui a Raja Ampat è dove sento di aver fatto un vero e proprio salto di qualità.
Qui è dove io e la subacquea, se prima ci stavamo studiando con diffidenza, siamo finalmente diventate amiche.
Una settimana dedicata ad esplorare i mitici fondali di questo paradiso della biodiversità, tre immersioni al giorno, quasi otto ore a bordo di una barca non proprio comodissima, sette giorni in un Eco Resort senza televisione, ma con il rumore delle onde del mare come sottofondo, con una connessione wi-fi che andava e veniva, ma con 13 gatti a tenermi compagnia.
Partita con all’attivo sole 15 immersioni e con aspettative confuse su ciò che avrei trovato sott’acqua, mi sono ritrovata entusiasta e incantata dalla bellezza e dall’unicità del mondo sottomarino in cui sono stata catapultata per una settimana. Squali, mante, pesci di barriera, nudibranchi e cavallucci pigmei, distese di coralli intatti e gorgonie che così grandi non pensavo potessero nemmeno esistere, in uno spettacolo di colori difficile da raccontare.
Qui ho preso il mio brevetto Advanced, ho battuto il mio modesto record di profondità scendendo oltre i 30 metri, ho esplorato meravigliosi reef controcorrente senza farmi prendere dal panico, qui ho riso e scherzato sott’acqua con il mio compagno di immersione, lui che mi ha portata qui, e proprio qui, per la prima volta, mi sono sentita una vera subacquea.

raja ampat

Sono passati solo pochi giorni dal mio ritorno da Raja Ampat. Un arcipelago così tanto lontano che ancora adesso faccio fatica a credere di esserci andata per davvero. Un viaggio voluto, desiderato, agognato e atteso per mesi, e che non ha disatteso le aspettative. Nemmeno un po’.

Forse perché sott’acqua tutto è più leggero, e nemmeno il tuo corpo sembra più avere un peso, forse avevo bisogno di qualcosa che mi ricordasse che tutto è relativo, che niente resta fermo per sempre. Rientro a casa con la consapevolezza e l’orgoglio di aver fatto un viaggio che solo fino a pochi mesi fa non avrei mai pensato di poter fare. Rientro a casa mettendo in discussione me stessa come viaggiatrice, e il concetto di lusso che mi ha sempre accompagnata lungo tutto il mio percorso professionale.
Non posso negare di aver trovato, di aver vissuto, qui a Raja Ampat, qui all’Agusta Eco Resort, il lusso spesso introvabile del silenzio, della privacy, della tranquillità, del contatto vero con la natura, del sentirmi in pace con me stessa e in armonia con il mondo esterno. È un nuovo concetto di lusso, più sottile e ricercato, forse meno immediato da percepire, ma che vale la pena vivere e sviluppare.

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