Italia Sicilia Travel

Sicilia – Day 1 – Marzamemi, Siracusa e una vista impagabile sul Duomo

Ortigia, b&b Il Duomo

Sbarco dall’aereo a Catania e trovo ad aspettarmi un pullman delle linee Interbus che in meno di un’ora mi porta a Siracusa. Qui è ancora estate piena, ma oggi l’aria è fresca e il cielo è un po’ coperto.
Dalla stazione degli autobus mi dirigo a piedi verso l’isola di Ortigia, dove si trova il mio bed & breakfast, non ci impiego più di una ventina di minuti.
Per aver prenotato tutto all’ultimo minuto, non posso certo lamentarmi.
La finestra della mia camera si affaccia proprio sulla meravigliosa piazza del Duomo di Ortigia. Una camera semplice, ma con una vista impagabile.

Ad accogliermi qui al b&b Il Duomo trovo Stefano, simpaticissimo proprietario che mi fa subito sentire a casa. Ma scoprirò presto che qui in Sicilia riguardo ad accoglienza sono tutti imbattibili.
È quasi mezzogiorno, la mia camera non è ancora pronta, ma posso lasciare il mio trolley qui e tornare tra un po’, Stefano mi assicura che non ci vorrà più di mezz’ora, io ne approfitto per bermi un caffè con una magnifica vista sul Duomo. Per 1 euro e 30 ne vale davvero la pena, tanto che gli lascio volentieri anche i 20 centesimi di resto (si ok, non un grande sforzo lo so).
Non posso fare altro che continuare a guardami intorno, la Piazza è davvero stupenda, quasi più bella che in foto. Tutta bianca, luminosa, elegante. I palazzi attorno alla Cattedrale del Duomo sono favolosi, i negozi di artigianato, i ristoranti di cucina locale mi fanno già venire l’acquolina in bocca.

Ortigia

Oggi però non ho molto tempo da dedicare ad Ortigia, tra poco mi aspettano per l’escursione a Marzamemi, un primo assaggio di questa zona della Sicilia che ancora non conosco. Il grosso pullman da 48 posti è quasi tutto pieno, e io sono l’unica cliente italiana. Insieme a me tedeschi e francesi, e la nostra guida siracusana.
Marzamemi è un tipico villaggio di pescatori, il calore della gente è quello siciliano, i colori della piazzetta diventata ormai iconica sono quelli della Grecia. Questo posto è delizioso, nonostante gran parte dei locali restino chiusi nel pomeriggio per poi animarsi alla sera, l’atmosfera magica che circonda Marzamemi si percepisce chiaramente. Piccole taverne piene di fiori, dai tipici tavoli di legno con le sedie azzurre, file di luci colorate che si accendono al tramonto dando vita ad uno spettacolo davvero suggestivo. Una tonnara ancora in funzione dove ho potuto assaggiare il tonno più buono di sempre, io che vado matta pure per quello in lattina, qui non la finivo più di caricare i crostini di pane abbrustolito con cucchiaini di tonno insaporito con menta, pomodorini secchi, cipolle, peperoncino e erbe aromatiche. La scusa era che avevo saltato il pranzo, ma temo avrei fatto lo stesso anche con la pancia piena.
Insieme ad alcuni ragazzi conosciuti per caso, facciamo qualche foto nella deliziosa piazzetta di Marzamemi, un po’ di shopping nei negozi di artigianato locale e una passeggiata sul lungomare, fino al porticciolo dove mi attende l’autobus che mi riporterà a Siracusa.

Marzamemi

Rientro in hotel che sono quasi le 8. Fortunatamente la mia collega Paola mi ha consigliato un ristorante dove cenare, dopo la doccia inizio ad essere davvero affamata. Ho prenotato per le 9 e mezza, adattandomi agli orari siciliani, ma approfitto di qualche minuto di anticipo per bere un bicchiere di vino in uno dei bar elegantissimi che si affacciano sulla Piazza, proprio davanti al Duomo. È un po’ come andare a bere uno spritz al Cafè Florian a Venezia, solo che qui ad Ortigia un calice di ottimo vino, abbondante e non servito con il contagocce, accompagnato da pizzette calde, olive e mini arancini, lo pago 5 euro.
Mi prendo un po’ di tempo per me, per realizzare dove sono, pensare a quanta bellezza mi circonda, a quanta bellezza abbiamo qui in Italia, quando io normalmente non mi sento soddisfatta se non faccio almeno 5 ore di aereo.
Vedo davanti a me un futuro ancora nebuloso, ma sicuramente felice, perché entusiasmo e positività quelli non me li ha mai tolti nessuno. Non ho progetti a lungo termine, come sempre, non riuscirei a sostenerli. Dieci anni fa avrei giurato che superati i 30 anni la mia vita sarebbe stata già “definita”, invece mi rendo conto quasi piacevolmente che non lo è, non lo è per niente, e che sono ancora io a manovrare il timone della mia vita dandole ogni giorno la direzione che desidero. Oggi sono libera di prendere un aereo e volare a Catania, domani chissà. Adesso mi godo questo calice di vino che, a stomaco vuoto da questa mattina, mi sta quasi andando alla testa

E’ tempo di cena. Allo O’Scinà mi aspettano e mi hanno riservato un tavolo all’esterno, in uno dei vicoli più caratteristici di Ortigia. Sarà che sono da sola, ma i camerieri e il proprietario si avvicendano per non farmi mai mancare un po’ di compagnia. Mi abbandono ai loro consigli e non potrei fare scelta più felice. Caponata di tonno freschissimo e un filetto di tonno in crosta di pistacchi che ancora me lo sogno. Vino bianco della casa, e per finire cassata siciliana e Zibibbo. Non è tanto come ho mangiato, divinamente ma suppongo che qui in Sicilia sia una costante, quello che ha fatto davvero la differenza sono state le persone. Dopo essermi svegliata questa mattina alle 4 e 30, mi ritrovo ancora qui, a mezzanotte passata, a ridere e chiacchierare con il personale del ristorante che, a turno, si alternava al mio tavolo. Scopro che il cameriere e l’aiuto cuoco sono due ex animatori Samarcanda  che hanno lavorato proprio in alcuni dei nostri villaggi, pazzesco quanto sia piccolo il mondo! Mi fermo insieme a loro fino a che mi reggono le forze, poi mi fiondo a letto e per almeno otto ore sprofondo nel sonno.

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