Oggi mi alzo di buon’ora.
Primo perché ormai il mio orologio biologico è settato sui miei orari di ufficio e ogni mattina la sveglia suona inesorabilmente alle 6 e 40, così anche quando sono in vacanza e potrei dormire, mi ritrovo alle 7 in punto con gli occhi spalancati a guardare il soffitto.
Secondo perché ho una sola giornata a disposizione per visitare Ortigia, il cuore si Siracusa, e non ho intenzione di sprecarne neanche un minuto.
La colazione qui al bed & breakfast non è male, tè verde, torte fatte in casa e brioche appena sfornate non mancano, anche se avrei preferito iniziare la mattinata con una granita alla mandorla. Mi dico che la prenderò strada facendo (ma in realtà mi mancherà il coraggio).
Sono da poco passate le 9 e sono già fuori per le strade labirintiche di Ortigia. Prima regola: Perdersi.
Non servono cartine, Ortigia è minuscola e perdere l’orientamento tra i suoi cunicoli è d’obbligo. Io che mi perdo facilmente anche nella mia stessa città, sono ben contenta di non avere una meta, ma di poter camminare libera ovunque l’istinto mi porti.
Adoro camminare. Penso che ognuno di noi sia portato per una qualche attività fisica piuttosto che per un’altra, chi ama correre, chi nuotare, chi andare in bicicletta. Camminare, instancabilmente, è ciò che più mi rilassa e che mi fa bene, sia fisicamente che mentalmente. Potrei resistere infinite ore, soprattutto quando mi trovo in città belle come questa, dove non smetteresti mai di andare avanti per scoprire cosa si nasconde dietro quella viuzza o dentro quel portone, o, ancora, oltre a quell’angolo così suggestivo.
Arrivo fino alla punta estrema dell’isola, il caldo è afoso, ma quando viaggio quasi non me ne accorgo, solo quando sono a Milano non faccio che lamentarmi. Il lungomare è puntellato di ristoranti che offrono prelibatezze locali, i turisti sono ancora tanti, soprattutto stranieri, ma la città è molto vivibile in questo periodo. Li vedo in coppia, ma anche da soli, bersi un latte macchiato assaporando, oltre alla colazione, una vista magnifica.
Ancora una volta penso a quanto di bello abbiamo qui, che tutti ci invidiano, che tutti vengono a vedere, e penso a me che scappo via e che quasi a venire “solo” in Sicilia non mi pare nemmeno di viaggiare.. Prima o poi correggerò questo strano mio modo di vedere le cose, intanto l’aver prenotato deliberatamente un volo su Catania piuttosto che su Amsterdam o Barcellona, mi fa ben sperare in merito.
Anche io mi fermo a bere un caffè davanti al mare, il ragazzo seduto al tavolo di fianco al mio ha un cane che continua a saltarmi sulle ginocchia.. Tentativo di approccio da copione di un film? Ovviamente in tempo zero mi alzo per rimettermi in marcia. Sono venuta qui anche per schiarirmi le idee, non per confondermele ancora di più.
La mia collega Paola, oltre allo squisito ristorante di ieri sera, mi ha suggerito una visita al mercato che si trova nella parte bassa della città, vicino al ponte che collega Siracusa all’Isola di Ortigia.
Eccomi quindi a perdermi tra oggetti di artigianato, ceramiche colorate, assaggi di prodotti locali che, nonostante questa mattina abbia fatto una colazione notevole, mi aprono una voragine nello stomaco.
La scusa è che sono ormai più di tre ore che cammino senza sosta sotto un sole cocente, la verità è che sono una golosa e ho voglia di assaggiare qualche altra specialità locale.
I profumi di questo mercato mi hanno fatto venire voglia di tornare dai miei “amici” di O’Scinà. Passo tra le affollate vie adiacenti a Piazza Duomo e, incredibile, mi sento chiamare dai camerieri del ristorante! “Ciao Claudia dove vai, fermati qui a mangiare!” Mi urlano da lontano. Il proprietario incalza “Ho fatto una pasta con ragù di tonno fresco da leccarsi i baffi!” Mi viene da sorridere e penso che a casa mia non ci salutiamo nemmeno tra vicini di casa.
Qui siamo davvero su un altro pianeta.
Mi fermo volentieri, tra chiacchiere, un ottimo piatto di pasta (che non mangio quasi mai, ma avevo intuito che rifiutare sarebbe stato impossibile) e due bicchieri colmi di vino con le pesche che vogliono a tutti i costi che io assaggi.
Finisco di pranzare che sono cotta, ma invece di buttarmi a letto a riposare un po’, fermo un ragazzo alla guida di un tuk-tuk, una piccola Ape per intenderci, e ci accordiamo per un giro nel centro storico durante il quale, oltre a farmi da guida, mi farà anche delle foto portandomi negli scorci più caratteristici della città.
Lo stesso favore l’avevo chiesto questa mattina anche a Stefano, il proprietario del mio bed & breakfast che, fotocamera al collo, mi aveva fotografata senza sosta sul balcone della mia camera con una vista incantevole sulla Piazza del Duomo.
Anche questo ragazzo si mostra molto disponibile, quasi divertito, iniziamo quindi il nostro tour fotografico lungo la splendida isola di Ortigia.
Non sono passati nemmeno cinque minuti che inizia a piovere, pioggia battente, che non accenna a smettere. Penso ai soldi che ho buttato via per questo giretto turistico finito in disastro, ma lui non si scoraggia e, puntualmente, ad ogni angolo di suo gradimento (lui è nato qui e ama ogni centimetro di questa città) mi fa scendere dal tuk-tuk, si mette al collo la mia reflex e, sfidando vento e pioggia, mi riprende con tanto di “ordini” sulle posizioni e le espressioni migliori da adottare! Io indosso un vestito rosso scollatissimo, comprato ieri e che mi sta lungo di almeno 15 centimetri.. Che se non avesse piovuto avrei solo pulito un po’ le strade della città, mentre ora invece è completamente zuppo, come me del resto.
Quando mancano ormai solo cinque minuti alla fine del nostro giro, forse impietosito dal mio stato e rendendosi conto che così conciata non avrei potuto posare per foto alcuna, si ferma in un chiosco di fiducia e mi offre una granita ristoratrice. Prima di lasciarmi davanti al mio bed & breakfast mi invita all’escursione in barca della mattina seguente, gratis, ci tiene che veda la sua bellissima città anche dal mare.
Domani però sarò in viaggio verso l’Etna e, mentre glielo dico, mi ricordo di dover ancora fare la doccia e sistemare la valigia.
Esausta, dopo un ottimo trancio di pesce spada alla palermitana, un contorno di caponata e un bicchiere di vino, punto la sveglia alle 6 e mi abbandono ad un sonno profondo.
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